I took a walk down to the Merlion area at the mouth of the Singapore River today, and there was an almost post-apocalyptic feel to the place. I'm not sure why, but it might have been the dark clouds, the half-hearted drizzle, the slightly too-strong-for-Singapore breeze, and the not-quite-dark dusk of Singapore. Come to think of it maybe it felt more post-modern than post-apocalyptic. Or maybe they're the same thing. In any case it was a post-something vibe.
I have always been fascinated by the placement of the Merlion in what is a carefully constructed picture of Singapore (and of course a photo opp for tourists). A specially built pier stretches out in front of the Merlion so that you can take the 'perfect' picture of Singapore: behind the Merlion is the Fullerton Hotel (an old colonial-type building), and beyond that is a towering circle of skyscrapers, Singapore's financial centre. There is the Singapore story for you - from British colony to economic success, just perfect.
Edwin Thumboo's poem Ulysses by the Merlion, is placed on the pier in front of the Merlion, an official caption to the official definitive photo of Singapore. This is the last verse of the poem:
Perhaps having dealt with things,
Surfeited on them.
Their spirit yearn again for images,
Adding to the dragon, the phoenix,
Garuda, naga, those horses of the sun,
This lion of the sea.
This image of themselves.
Whatever Thumboo thinks of his poem, I cannot but feel that to place the poem at this place is both bittersweet irony and piercing commentary. All around this spot, the hustle of dealing with things continues. This is the historical centre of trade in Singapore, the Singapore River. Today the Central Business District forms the backdrop to the Merlion. If you look a bit to the left of the Merlion, you will see the bright lights of the construction of the 'Integrated Resorts' (i.e. multi-billion dollar gambling den). This is the heart of where things are dealt with, traded, fought over. And yet in the midst of all this stands the Merlion, this misshapen, wistful creature, this symbol of our longing for images, and the image to satisfy our longings.
There is a beauty to Singapore that I had not appreciated when I was younger. It is not the beauty that our Tourism Board would like us to see, but a more ambivalent and neurotic beauty - a beauty more akin to that of a raving Ophelia or a guilt-stricken Lady MacBeth than the sweet innocence of a pure and certain Juliet. It is a desperate, futile beauty, beautiful because it is tainted with contradiction and conflict. There are red angry splashes of frustration in Singapore, and a greying disappointment, a mildewed, unsure hope, the green of our grass and sandy tramples, the shiny silver of technology, money and efficiency, a confusion of dragon and phoenix and garuda and naga and the horses of the sun has rampaged through and we no longer know what colour we are. Which lion in which sea?
The CBD during the weekend is like a silent, gargantuan cemetary that does not reflect the warmth nor the life nor the banality of those it was built for. They stand, huge and monumental sculptures, indifferent to the purpose for which they were built, and indifferent to our office hour scuttling between their concrete layers and columns.
We build things hoping that in building things we build enduring images. We are good at building things but we are not good at building images. Our images turn out to be a child's scribble - half-fish half-lion, half-everything all-nothing. Such ironic self-awareness we possess, that we chose this crooked creature as the image of ourselves and placed it at this very spot - this spot that represents everything we've strived to achieve and all the things we try to transcend.
Opposite float two brightly lit durian husks, two more halves of an empty whole.
I actually hesitated for quite a while before posting this, largely because it sounds so maudlin. It reminds me of my Creative Writing Club days, and god forbid I return to my Years of Angsty Poetry (although in my defence I wrote most of my poems in 2 weeks and only because I had to produce a portfolio to get into one of those arts programmes. After that I was a proudly inactive and unproductive member of the Club.) Nevertheless, here it is, and for a little extra entertainment... The song for tonight is: